As the latest Bordeaux vintage to be bottled, should 2021 fit into your portfolio planning and which are the key wines?
2021 Vintage headlines
- Bordeaux 2021 followed the great modern trilogy of vintages 2018 – 2020
- A vintage of variegated quality
- Challenging climate conditions created a tough year in the vineyard and slashed yield
- Strong year for Sauternes
- Neal Martin: ‘A welcome return to a classic style of Bordeaux’ – the best wines of the vintage are ‘supremely balanced and elegant’.
Vin-X at the 2021 UGC Tasting
One of the highlights of the Autumn wine trade calendar, this year’s trade tasting hosted by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) showcased the region’s 2021 wines. The event was held at the Lindley Hall in London and members of our team were delighted to spend the afternoon savouring 2021, whilst catching up with our Bordeaux friends.
Is Bordeaux 2021 a Prime Vintage?
What do we mean by a ‘Prime Vintage’? In a year where the critics’ scores across Bordeaux are higher than average with a larger number of wines rated 98 – 100 points, this is recognised as a Prime vintage. Wines of a Prime vintage tend to enjoy a price premium.
Where a vintage’s wine are rated in line with the average quality, this year would be referred to as a Mid-Vintage. And a lower-than-average vintage rating is recognised as an ‘Off-vintage’. A key investment wine of Mid or Off Vintages rated with the same very high score as its Prime vintage equivalent can offer good value and be a great opportunity for future growth as these excellent wines become rarer.
2021 was a tough year in the vineyard, with the climate chucking everything at the vignerons. A wet and cold winter followed by severe and late frosts in April and May, growth was held back and the season protracted. Rainstorms and mildew added further pressure and resulted in smaller yields at harvest.
Alcohol levels are lower than in recent vintages and the wines have been compared to the style produced in the 1980s and 1990s. Certainly different to the highly acclaimed 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages.
Bordeaux 2021 has still a lot of maturing to do, but the early en primeur tastings in 2022 did not rate the year as a ‘Prime vintage’.
The critic’s view of Bordeaux 2021
Neal Martin still probably has the edge when it comes to the critical view on young Bordeaux. He explains that a vintage like 2021 needs experience and expertise to decipher. Martin tasted the unfermented juice in September 2021, then after blending in January 2023 and had three weeks tasting over 300 wines of the vintage during the en primeur tastings in April 2022.
He describes 2021 as “the most intellectually stimulating to drink despite the absence of undisputable masterpieces.” He also points to some of the wines as “a handful achieving remarkable levels of quality given the challenges faced, impossible levels just a few years ago.” And summarises this incredibly challenging vintage for the wine makers and vineyards’ teams as ‘enticingly fallible.’
Neal Martin’s top 2021 wines
| Wine | Appellation | Neal Martin Score |
|---|---|---|
| Lafleur | Pomerol | 96 - 98 |
| Haut Brion Blanc | Pessac Leognan | 96 - 98 |
| La Mission Haut Brion Blanc | Pessac Leognan | 95 - 97 |
| Lafite Rothschild | Pauillac | 95 - 97 |
| Vieux Chateau Certan | Pomerol | 95 - 97 |
| Margaux | Margaux | 94 - 96 |
| Rauzan-Ségla | Margaux | 94 - 96 |
| Léoville Las Cases | St Julien | 94 - 96 |
| L’Eglise-Clinet | Pomerol | 94 - 96 |
| L’Evangile | Pomerol | 94 - 96 |
Wine trade and critics’ view on Bordeaux 2021
At the 2021 en primeur tastings in April 2022, the top wines rated were:
| Bordeaux Region | Wine |
|---|---|
| Medoc | Lafite Rothschild |
| Pessac Leognan / Graves | Haut Brion |
| St Emilion | Figeac |
| Pomerol | Lafleur |
Our team’s 2021 tasting notes
Vin-X’s Zoe Awcock and Steve Palmer enjoyed catching up with old friends from Bordeaux and making new at the UGC event.
Zoe said "It's really valuable to be given the opportunity to meet a number of the teams from Bordeaux at these events. It was great to be able to taste the vintage now going into bottle and to get valuable insight on these wines and how the recent 2023 harvest has gone. We tasted some great wines on the afternoon and for a change I thought I would give some pointers to some of the delicious drinkers on offer. I will certainly be enjoying 2021 in the years to come."
Here's Zoe's pointers to some great wines for you to keep an investment eye on and some to enjoy drinking at home or in a restaurant:
| Chateau | Appellation | Top Critic Score | Tasting Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Les Carmes Haut Brion | Pessac Leognan | Antonio Galloni: | My personal favourite from the tasting - Deep inky purple in colour with an intensity on the palate to go along with it. Dark black fruit notes, black cherry, damson and kirsch coincide with a delicate wintery spice of cinnamon and star anise. 45% of this vintage was whole-bunched fermented, giving it a vibrant, energetic wine which will be exciting to drink in 15 years’ time. |
| Haut Bailly | Pessac Leognan | James Suckling: | Predominant Cabernet Sauvignon making up 65% of the blend, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Giving it aromas of dark black berries, the oak is very pronounced but over time will merge giving a delightful balanced and elegant wine. |
| Leoville Barton | St Julien | James Suckling: | I had the pleasure of speaking with Lilian briefly (see Langoa Barton below) as her wines were by far attracting the most attention at the tasting. Leoville Barton’s 2021 conjures up a juicy red hedgerow mixed with ripe red stone fruits making this a delicate, soft wine. One of the great St Julien Leovilles, certainly a producer of great wines and one for Bordeaux appreciators to consider. |
| Fieuzal | Pessac Leognan | James Suckling: | Super soft with aromas of plum and red berries and hints of spice. Lively acids and punchy tannins, enjoyable now but would still be quaffable in 2032. |
| La Tour Figeac | St Emilion | James Suckling: | Prepare for an olfactory adventure with this wine, as it unleashes a masculine explosion of cedar wood, musk, coffee and cocoa. Yet, amidst this robust symphony, a delicate, silky floral undertone waves through, adding a touch of finesse. Energetic red cherries and plums take centre stage, its fresh and well balanced. This is enjoyable now but promises a lasting delight until 2035. |
| La Gaffeliere | St Emilion | Lisa Perrotti-Brown: | Light in appearance, fresh raspberry and a fleshy peach character mixed with a light savoury note with a slight touch of spice and cedar. |
| Langoa Barton | St Julien | James Suckling: | This was the first vintage to be made in the family’s new winery. There was a real buzz around the Barton table, a continuous, keen queue eager to try both of the Chateau’s wines, which kept Lily busy throughout the day. |
| Gazin | Pomerol | James Suckling: | Mildew and wet conditions severely affected the vineyard, therefore yields were low and the Grand Vin is entirely made with Merlot. Powerful but light, harmonious blend of red and black fruits, alcohol strong on the nose but doesn’t burn, tannins are high and very drying on the palate giving structured depth to the wine. |
| Kirwan | Margaux | James Suckling: | A standout from the tasting, a symphony of succulent red fruits. This wine is showcasing a nice balance with the oak and fruits. Powerful on the nose, but soft and delicate on the palate, the hint of underripe fruits serves as a reminder of the wine’s youthful vigour. This balanced beauty not only delights now but promises a graceful evolution with impressive aging potential. |
Our view on 2021
Bordeaux 2021 came 'hot on the heels' of the outstanding trilogy of 2018, '19 and '20. You need vintages like 2021 to bring some levelling back to the market. Again climate conditions affected productivity and quality. The true gems of the vintage will be the key wines for investors to seek out to diversify a Bordeaux collection. 2021 will also provide the opportunity to secure the top wines at a more affordable price without compromising quality.
For more information on investing in 2021, speak to a member of our expert team on 0203 384 2262 and get our latest Market Report to catch up on the current market trends.