Harvest is the most exciting time of the year in the vineyard. Literally the fruit of the year’s labour becomes apparent as quality and quantity are laid bare whilst grapes move from vine to cellar. So, what are the earliest possible views on the 2022 vintage?
Firstly, the year in the making was another period of climate challenges with severe frosts, summer hailstorms and drought, now changing from the exceptional to routine annual events, impacting growers’ yields and costs.
Bordeaux en primeur 2022 harvest considerations
Forest fires in the Gironde shocked the wine growing world this summer. With the driest July on record since 1959, wildfires ravaged 20,000 hectares of forest over two weeks. One of two major fires was close to the famed Liber Pater vineyards, causing the town of Landiras to be completely evacuated, including the massive storage facility of Bordeaux negociant, Grands Chais de France. The second, near the famous Dune de Pilat in Arcachon, was a safe distance away from vineyards. A third fire in the Northern Medoc on the 18th July was controlled quickly and no threat to the iconic vineyards in the area.
More routinely hot summers are a result of our changing climate and Bordeaux winemakers are now concerned that smoke taint may become another factor to be managed on an annual basis. The risk of smoke taint damage can occur at any time after the vines have flowered in the event of a fire. Research has shown that thick-skinned, small-berried varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with a larger surface to volume ratio are more exposed. For the vast majority of 2022 Bordeaux En Pirmeur wines, there is no risk of smoke taint, however for those located near to the fire zones it’s too early to tell.
Loic Pasquet of Liber Pater, which was within 500 yards of the Graves fire stated that “The analysis that counts can only take place after vinification.” It remains to be seen whether there will be a 2022 vintage for one of the region’s most expensive wines.
The 2022 Bordeaux en primeur harvest, which started early and is now underway, is expected to yield less than its five-year average following devastating Spring frosts and June hailstorms prior to the drought later in the summer. Quality is being whispered about as this year’s crop hits the sorting tables. The previous two hottest years with forest fires in Bordeaux were in 1949 and 1989, both now viewed as ‘mythical vintages’ – will 2022’s long hot summer serve up great wines? We look forward to finding out more in our harvest visit to Bordeaux in September.
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Champagne 2022 harvest foresight
The Champagne growers are adapting to an earlier harvest period generally and this year’s was the sixth in the last twenty years to start in August. The Comité de Champagne sets the harvest period dates every year for each village and grape variety to manage quality across the region. This year’s earlier start was set for the 20th August, however some growers requested an earlier start including Billecart-Salmon for its more southerly Chardonnay parcels.
The Comité has also set the allowed yield for the region’s 2022 harvest at its highest level for over a decade at 12,000kg / hectare. This is partly in response to the significantly rising demand for vintage Champagne but also to the early indicators of a potentially great year. There were minimal losses from frost in Spring 2022 and it’s been a very healthy year in the vineyard with very little disease. Champagne may have to manage an earlier harvest, but the rewards could be outstanding – we will keep you posted.
Burgundy 2022 at harvest
Burgundy also started its harvest early in August, bud-break is routinely occurring in early March leaving vines exposed to the risk of frost damage over longer periods. Once again, damaging frost impacted the north of the region but not to the extent suffered in 2021 when overall yield was reduced by fifty per cent. Now an annual event, the vineyards of some of the most valuable wines in the world were illuminated by rows of candles delivering gentle warmth to new growth in April as temperatures plunged below zero.
Variable yields due to climate change are making Burgundy more expensive to produce, the candles alone cost around €5,000 per hectare, plus more staff are needed for more intensive care along with rising insurance costs due to the changing climate. Frederic Drouhin, President of Burgundy grower and negociant Maison Joseph Drouhin is concerned about the rising prices of their wines and commented on the regional challenges now requiring more expensive response from the vineyard owners.
Given the small production levels for Burgundy investment wines any reduction on supply is driving higher prices. 2022 follows a much smaller than average 2021 vintage so the market is short on Burgundy. Another strong vintage will be warmly received – further information to follow.
Follow our harvest 2022 updates:
I am joining the Vin-X Team in Bordeaux during the 2022 harvest, our first in the post-Covid era, and looking forward to catching up with the fantastic teams at the great vineyards. We will bring you their view on the 2022 vintage as it hits the cellars.
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